최유리 Yu Ri Choi , 임형준 Hyung Jun Lim , 이존환 John Hwan Lee , 오성근 Seong Geun Oh

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Abstract

A novel microcapsule/emulsions for cosmetics was studied. Our present studies demonstrate that the biopolymer- stabilized microemulsion composed of polysaccharide and protein can encapsulate and stabilize remarkably coenzyme-Q10 (Q10). Polysaccharide and protein complex were incorporated in the microcapsule in order to reinforce the physical strength of the microspheres. We compared the long-term stability of the activity of Q10 in biopolymer- stabilized microemulsion. There was no noticeable negative effect on the activity of Q10. Optical microscope (OM) and transmission electron microscope (TEM) showed that microcapsules were spherical and had a smooth surface. Consequently, the polysaccharide/protein emulsion produced in this study may be beneficial in improving the emulsion stability and the protection capability of labile substances.

Key Words

biopolymer, soy protein, polysaccharide/protein complexes, electrostatic interactions, emulsion stabilization

서동환 Dong Hoan Seo , 이홍선 Hong Seon Lee , 윤종혁 Jong Hyuk Yoon , 김연준 Youn Joon Kim , 변상요 Sang Yo Byun

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Abstract

Titrated extract of Centella asiatica (TECA), which is poorly soluble in water is well known for wound healing and anti wrinkle agent. This study was conducted to find the optimum condition for the preparation of water in oil in water (W₁/O/W₂) emulsion containing TECA. Solubility of TECA were measured by UV spectrophotometer. 2.55 g of TECA was dissolved in solution composed of dipropylene glycol (40.0 g), ethanol (20.0 g), and water (10.0 g). Factors affecting stability of the emulsions (W₁/O, W₁/O/W₂) was investigated. The optimum conditions for the preparation of W₁/O emulsion was composed of dipropylene glycol : ethanol : water : TECA in a weight ratio of 40.0 : 20.0 : 10.0 : 2.5 for water phase and squalane : cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone : cetearyl alcohol in a weight ratio of 22.5 : 4.0 : 2.5 for oil phase. The optimum conditions for the preparation of W₁/O/W₂ multiple emulsion was composed of water : W₁/O emulsion : polysorbate 80 : carbomer : triethanolamine in a weight ratio of 55.8 : 40.0 : 4.0 : 0.1 : 0.1.

Key Words

titrated extract of Centella asiatica, W₁/O/W₂ multiple emulsion, W₁/O emulsion, solubility, ethanol

정진우 Jin Woo Jung , 유차영 Cha Young Yoo , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

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Abstract

In this study, we prepared liquid crystal emulsion composed of amphiphilic substance C_14-22 alcohol, C_12-20 alkyl glucoside, behenyl alcohol and studied liquid crystal emulsion of properties and in vitro skin permeation. The results of formulation experiments, the clear liquid crystalline structure was observed in the ratio of C_14-22 alcohol 0.8%, C_12-20 alkyl glucoside 3.2%, behenyl alcohol 4% in the formulation. The results of physical property measurements, the viscosity of liquid crystal emulsion and O/W emulsion applied as a control group was respectively 1871.26 ∼ 1.15 Pa·s, 1768.69 ∼ 1.14 Pa·s and the shear stress of O/W emulsion was 178.68 ∼ 909.18 Pa, that of liquid crystal emulsion was 190.45 ∼ 919.38 Pa. The storage modulus of O/W emulsion was 3428.53 ∼ 9157.45 Pa, that of liquid crystal emulsion was 4487.82 ∼ 8195.59 Pa. The tan (delta) value of O/W emulsion which means a ratio of viscosity to elasticity was 0.43 ∼ 0.19, and that of liquid crystal emulsion was 0.23 ∼ 0.25. The water content value on the skin for liquid crystal emulsion was significantly higher from 1 h to 6 h compared with that of O/W emulsion and the transepidermal water loss on the skin was significantly superior in skin moisture loss suppression from 30 min to 4 h compared with that of O/W emulsion. The results of skin permeation using glycyrrhizic acid, the result of skin permeation amount of liquid crystal emulsion for 24 h was 64.58 μg/㎠, that of O/W emulsion was 37.07 μg/㎠, that of butylene glycol solution was 41.05 μg/㎠. Hourly permeability results, it is showed that skin penetration effect of the liquid crystal emulsion increases after 8 h. These results suggest that liquid crystal emulsions are effective for skin moisturizing effect and function as potential efficacy ingredient delivery system for the transdermal delivery.

Key Words

liquid crystal, rheological properties, moisturizing effect, glycyrrhizic acid, skin permeation studies, cosmetics

김미나 Mi Na Kim , 곽택종 Taek Jong Kwak , 강내규 Nae Gyu Kang , 이상화 Sang Hwa Lee , 박선규 Sun Gyoo Park , 이천구 Cheon Koo Lee

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Abstract

Skin is exposed to sunlight or artificial indoor light on a daily. The reached solar light on the earth surface consist of 50% visible light and 45% infrared (IR) except for ultra violet (UV). The negative effects of UV including UVB and UVA have been steadily investigated within the last decades. However, little is known about the effects of visible or IR light. In this study, we irradiated human dermal fibroblasts using light emitting diode (LED) to investigate the optimal parameter for enhancing cell growth and collagen synthesis. We found that red of 630 nm and green of 520 nm enhance the cell proliferation, but irradiation with purple and blue light exerts toxic effects. To examine the response of irradiation time and light intensity on the fibroblasts, cells were exposed to red or green light with intensities from 0.05 to 0.75 mW/㎠. Procollagen secretion was increased of 1.4 fold by 10 min irradiation, while 30 min treatment decreased the collagen synthesis of dermal fibroblasts. Treatment with red of 0.3 mW/㎠ and green of 0.15 and 0.3 mW/㎠ resulted in enhancement of collagen mRNA. Lastly, we investigated the combinatorial effect of red and green light on dermal fibroblasts. The sequential irradiation of red and green light is an efficient way for the purpose of the increase in the number of fibroblasts than single light treatment. On the other hand, the exposure of red light alone was more effective method for enhancing of collagen secretion. Our study showed that specific light parameters accelerated cell proliferation, gene expression and collagen secretion on human dermal fibroblasts. In conclusion, we demonstrate that light exposure with specific parameter has beneficial effects on the function of dermal fibroblasts, and suggests the possibility of its cosmetically and clinical application.

Key Words

light therapy, dermal fibroblast, collagen, cell growth

조가영 Ga Young Cho , 박효민 Hyo Min Park , 권이경 Lee Kyung Kwon , 조성아 Sung A Cho , 강병영 Byung Young Kang , 김윤범 Yoon Bum Kim

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Abstract

This study is designed to analyze the effect of skincare using cosmetic containing ginseng extract, on improving quality of life (QOL) of healthy women, with blind testing. QOL is a concept that represents how one’s disease or health condition can physically, psychologically, and socially influence his or her daily life. The study was conducted to assess the effect of a ginseng cosmetic preparation on quality of life (QOL) using the Skindex-16 score, stratified by blind versus non-blinded option. 45 healthy women aged between 30 and 49 years with no skin disease were recruited for this study. Volunteers were divided into two groups. Group A (n = 22) received anti-aging cream with ginseng extract in the original packaging, which included the brand name and logo. Group B (n = 23) received the same cream in a plain white jar without any package decoration or logo. Both groups used the cream for 8 weeks. For the skin-related QOL assessment, Skindex-16 was used at baseline, forth, and eighth week. All volunteers except two dropouts in Group A completed the dermatology-specific QOL measure, Skindex-16, at baseline, after 4 weeks, and after 8 weeks of treatment with the provided samples. As a result, the mean score of 43 participants at baseline was 22.70 ± 4.82. There was a significant difference between the baseline score and the score after 8 weeks in both groups: The scores changed from 23.30 ± 5.14 to 20.20 ± 4.83 in Group A, from 22.17 ± 4.58 to 20.52 ± 3.60 in Group B. The “Symptom” subscale of Skindex-16 improved after 4 weeks and the “Emotion” subscale improved after 8 weeks in Group A. The “Function” subscale did not show improvement in either groups. Both groups showed no interaction effect between follow up time and groups in Skindex-16 and subscale. This research opens up the possibility of skincare using ginseng cream having a positive effect on QOL in healthy women. Moreover, one can predict that skincare ritual itself may have greater impact on the improvement of QOL, compared to the product packaging.

Key Words

skincare, cosmetic, quality of life, Skindex-16, ginseng

김지형 Ji Hyung Kim , 신재영 Jae Young Shin , 황승진 Seung Jin Hwang , 김윤선 Yun Sun Kim , 김유미 Yoo Mi Kim , 길소연 So Yeon Gil , 진무현 Mu Hyun Jin , 이상화 Sang Hwa Lee

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Abstract

Skin carrys out protective role against harmful outer environment assaults including ultraviolet radiation, heavy metals and oxides. Especially, ultraviolet-B (UVB) light causes inflammatory reactions in skin such as sun burn and erythma and stimulates melanin pigmentation. Furthermore, the influx of UVB into skin cells causes DNA damage in keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts, inhibition of extracellular matrix (ECM) synthesis which leads to a decrease in elasticity of skin and wrinkle formation. It also damages dermal connective tissue and disrupts the skin barrier function. Prolonged exposure of human skin to UVB light is well known to trigger severe skin lesions such as cell death and carcinogenesis. Haloarcula vallismortis is a halophilic microorganism isolated from the Dead Sea, Its growth characteristics have not been studied in detail yet. It generally grows at salinity more than 10%, but the actual growth salinity usually ranges between 20 to 25%. Because H. vallismortis is found mainly in saltern or salt lakes, there could exist defense mechanisms against strong sunlight. One of them is generation of additional ATP using halorhodopsin which absorbs photons and produces energy by potential difference formed by opening the chloride ion channel. It often shows a color of pink or red because of their high content of carotenoid pigments and it is considered to act as a defense mechanism against intense UV irradiation. In this study, the anti-inflammatory effect of the halophilic microorganism, H. vallismortis, extract was investigated. It was found that H. vallismortis extract had protective effect on DNA damage induced by UV irradiation. These results suggest that the extract of halophilic bacterium, H. vallismortis could be used as a bio-sunscreen or natural sunscreen which ameliorate the harmful effects of UV light with its anti-inflammatory and DNA protective properties.

Key Words

ultraviolet B, Haloarcula vallismortis, DNA damage, anti-inflammatory, bio-sunscreen

박지은 Ji-eun Park , 김형자 Hyoung Ja Kim , 김수남 Su-nam Kim , 강승현 Seung Hyun Kang , 김연준 Youn Joon Kim

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Abstract

Acute and chronic ultraviolet (UV) irradiation triggers severe skin photoaging processes, which directly disrupt the normal three-dimensional integrity of skin. UV light stimulates the expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) which degrade constituents of extracellular matrix (ECM) proteins. These MMPs reduce collagen synthesis and decrease skin elasticity and integrity, resulting in wrinkle formation. In this study, we identified Rosa multiflora hip extract (RME) as an effective anti-photoaging ingredient. First, cell proliferation activity of RME was verified using Hs68 human dermal fibroblast cell line. RME downregulated MMPs expression through the inhibition of activator protein (AP)-1. In addition, type Ⅰ and Ⅳ collagen expressions were increased with RME treatment and UVB-induced inflammatory responses were also reduced after RME treatment. In conclusion, R. multiflora hip extract may effectively improve UVB-induced skin aging and wrinkle formation which may provide as an anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, and anti-inflammation ingredient in cosmetic industry.

Key Words

R. multiflora hip, skin aging, ultraviolet radiation, matrix metalloproteinases, collagen

하지훈 Ji Hoon Ha , 정윤주 Yoon Ju Jeong , 성준섭 Joon Seob Seong , 김경미 Kyoung Mi Kim , 김아영 A Young Kim , 부민민 Min Min Fu , 서지영 Ji Young Suh , 이난희 Nan Hee Lee , 박진오 Jino Park , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

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Abstract

This study was carried out to evaluate the antioxidant and antibacterial activities of Glycyrriza uralensis Fisher (Jecheon, Korea) extracts obtained by various extraction conditions (85% ethanol, heating temperatures and times), and to establish the optimal extraction condition of G. uralensis for the application as cosmetic ingredients. The extracts obtained under different conditions were concentrated and made in the powdered (sample-1) and were the crude extract solutions without concentration (sample-2). The antioxidant effects were determined by free radical scavenging activity (FSC50), ROS scavenging activity (OSC50), and cellular protective effects. Antibacterial activity was determined by minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) on human skin flora. DPPH free radical scavenging activity of sample-1 (100 μg/mL) was 10% higher in group extracted for 6 h than 12 h, but sample-2 didn’t show any significant differences. The extraction yield extracted with same temperature for 12 h was 2.6 times higher than 6 h, but total flavonoid content was 1.1 times higher. These results indicated that total flavonoid content hardly increased with increasing extraction time. Free radical scavenging activity, ROS scavenging activity and cellular protective effects were not dependent on the yield of extraction, but total flavonoid content of extraction. Antibacterial activity on three skin flora (S. aureus, B. subtilis, P. acnes)of sample-1 in different extraction conditions were evaluated on same concentration, and the group extracted at 25 and 40 ℃ showed 16 times higher than methyl paraben (2,500 μg/mL). In conclusion, 85% ethanol extracts of G. uralensis extracted at 40 ℃ for 6 h showed the highest antioxidant and antibacterial activity. These results indicate that the extraction condition is important to be optimized by comprehensive evaluation of extraction yield with various conditions, yield of active component, and activity test with concentrations, and activity of 100% extract, for manufacturing process of products.

Key Words

Glycyrrhiza uralensis, antioxidative effect, antibacterial activity, various extraction conditions, cellular protective effect

민진우 Jin Woo Min , 김혜진 Hye-jin Kim , 주광식 Kwang-sik Joo , 강희철 Hee-cheol Kang

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Abstract

Ginsenosides (ginseng saponin) as the one of important pharmaceutical compounds of ginseng and is responsible for the pharmacological and biological activities. These ginsenoside produces diverse small molecules ginsenoside which have more pharmacological activities including anti-wrinkle, anti-cancer and anti-oxidant effects. In the present study, we isolated bacteria using esculin agar, to produce β-glucosidase, and we focused on the bio-transformation of ginsenoside. Phylogenetic tree analysis was performed by comparing the 16S rRNA sequences; we identified the strain as Stenotrophomonas rhizopilae strain GFC09. In order to determine the optimal conditions for enzyme activity, the crude enzyme was incubated with 1 mM ginsenoside Rb1. Bioconversion of ginsenoside Rb₁ were analyzed using TLC and HPLC. The crude enzyme hydrolyzed the ginsenoside Rb1 along the following pathway: LB: Rb₁→Rd→F₂ into compound K, TSB: Rb₁→Rd→F₂. The structure of the hydrolyzed metabolites were identified by NMR. The activity screening tests showed that the conversion product induced the production of type I procollagen in a dose-dependent manner. These results suggested that hydrolyzed ginseng product containing the ginsenoside F₂ and compound K could be useful as an active ingredient for wrinkle-care cosmetics.

Key Words

Stenotrophomonas rhizopilae strain GFC09, ginsenoside compound K, anti-wrinkle, bioconversion

김윤석 Yoon Suk Kim , 이용화 Young Hwa Lee , 이진영 Jin Young Lee , 이용섭 Yong Sub Yi

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Abstract

In this study, we investigated the inhibitory effect on melanin synthesis of Ginkgo biloba seed oil. The results showed 9.96% inhibitory effect scavenging activity on DPPH and showed a value of 1.33 mM of FeSO₄ at a concentration of 0.06% in DMSO by using FRAP assay. G. biloba seed oil inhibited tyrosinase activity up tp 37.72% and suppressed the biosynthesis melanin up to 48.02% at 0.06% in B16/F10 mouse melanoma cell. In G. biloba seed oil treated group tyrosinase, TRP-1, TRP-2 and MITF gen expression levels significantly decreased compared to the contral group at a concentration of 0.04% and 0.06%. In conclusion, these results indicated that G. biloba seed oil extract have a good antimelanogenetic effects.

Key Words

Ginkgo biloba, DPPH activity, melanin, oil, antimelanogenetic

공봉주 Bong Ju Kong , 김용재 Yong Jae Kim , 백지선 Jee Seon Baek , 이다빈 Da Bin Lee , 이지원 Ji Won Lee , 민나영 Na Young Min , 김아영 A Young Kim , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

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Abstract

In the present study, 50% ethanol extract, the ethyl acetate and aglycone fraction were prepared from mate (Ilex paraguariensis) and their antioxidative ability was evaluated. The yields of extract and fractions were 32.0, 4.48 and 0.82% per dried powder, respectively. Free radical scavenging activities were performed by 1,1-diphenyl- 2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) assay and total antioxidant capacity was estimated using luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. Free radical scavenging activities (FSC₅₀) of 50 % ethanol extract, ethyl acetate fraction and aglycone fraction were 8.83, 5.84 and 6.05 μg/mL, respectively. Their total antioxidant capacities (OSC₅₀) were similar to that of L-ascorbic acid (1.72 μg/mL), known as a prominent water soluble antioxidant, in all extracts and 50% ethanol extract (1.03 μg/mL) was the most effective. The cellular protective effects on the ¹O₂-induced cellular damage of erythrocytes were evaluated and the results showed that all extracts were significantly higher than (+)-α-tocopherol at 10 μg/mL. Especially, the τ₅₀ value of aglycone fraction was 5 times higher than (+)-α-tocopherol at 10 μg/mL and 50 μg/mL. The inhibitory effects of the ethyl acetate and aglycone fractions on tyrosinase were similar to arbutin, known as the whitening agent in cosmetics. These results suggest that the extracts of mate have the applicability as antioxidant and anti-aging cosmeceutical ingredients.

Key Words

Ilex paraguariensis, antioxidant activity, DPPH, cellular protective effect

윤종국 Jong-kuk Yun , 윤혜은 Hye-eun Yoon , 박정규 Jeong-kyu Park , 김미려 Mi Ryeo Kim , 김대익 Dae-ik Kim

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Abstract

This study was performed to investigate the wound healing effect of skin regeneration cosmetics utilizing low molecular weight Polydeoxynucleotide (PDRN). High purity PDRN was prepared from salmon testes poly-deoxyribonucleotide through protein and toxin removal process and molecular weight reduction. In order to evaluate the wound healing effect of PDRN in SD rats, 4 sites of dorsal skin of each animal were excised by using biopsy punch and 500 μL of test solution was topically applied once daily for 4 weeks. The tissue changes were observed for every week during the application periods. After applying the PDRN to the wound, the skin was cut flower and contraction of the wounds more quickly, and the coating of PDRN in the wound area was reduced significantly as compared to the positive control group Fucidin^Ⓡ applied. The microscopic observation of stained tissue showed that a positive control was most rapid in re-epithelialization ability followed by the PH group, PDRN group, HA group. In addition, transforming growth factor (TGF-β) and vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF), such as in the growth factor was similar to the results of staining of tissue lesions. In conclusion, it is determined that the low molecular weight PDRN has the therapeutic effect to the wound, and could be used as a functional material of cosmetics and medical industries.

Key Words

PDRN, polydeoxyribonucleotide, cosmeceuticals, anti-inflammation, wound healing, wound repair

조석철 Seok-cheol Cho , 남개원 Gaewon Nam

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Abstract

The skin is one of the largest organs in our body and participates in many of the human organism’s physiological and pathological events. Skin function were known for self-maintenance and self-repair, mechanical and chemical stress protection, protection against UV and environmental pathogenic micro-organisms, production of vitamin D, and social and psychological function through the physical aspect. The aim of this study was to evaluate the variation of biophysical parameters and to find relation with skin biomarkers in different anatomical site and age in Korean women. About 70 healthy volunteers in age range 20 to 49 were participated in this test. Test areas were the forearms and the cheek. Investigation to determine biophysical parameters on human skin, was carried out using various non-invasive methods. For analysis to skin biomarkers, we studied to examine various biomarkers for the quantitative determination of cortisol, fibronectin, keratin-1, 10, and 11, involucrin, and keratin-6 in human face and forearm. And we measured to skin biophysical parameters for skin anatomical site and age difference with non-invasive methods. As results of measuring site, some parameters were have following significant difference, stratum corneum hydration, trans epidermal water loss and skin color (L and a value). As results of age difference, skin colors were had only significant difference with age. For cortisol, keratin-6, fibronectin, keratin-1, 10, 11 contents, there were no significant difference in age and site. However, involucrin level in the cheeks were the highest for age group 30 ∼ 39 compared to other age groups. These results suggest that in individual skin condition may explain detailed skin state variation.

Key Words

Non-invasive measurement, biomarker, age and anatomical site